Fabric and Common Apparel Terms

A - B - C - D - E - F - G - H - I - J - K - L - M - N - O - P - Q - R - S - T - U - V - W - X - Y - Z

A

Absorbency
The ability of a fabric to take in moisture.

Acrylic
A manufactured fiber derived from polyacrylonitrile. Acrylic is soft, quick-drying, and resistant to shrinkage and wrinkles. The durable fiber is machine washable and dryable with excellent color retention.

Adhesive
Materials that cause fabrics, yarns or fibers to stick together.

Applique
Apparel decoration application created when material is cut out and sewn, embroidered or pasted onto another material.

Argyle
A pattern designed with different color diamond shapes knit into a fabric.

B

Bleeding
When a fabric or yarn loses it color after being immersed in water.

Blend
A term used to describe a garment made up of more than 1 fiber.

Breathability
Refers to air flowing through the pores of a fabric.

Brushing
A finishing process in which circular rotating brushes raise the nap on knit or woven fabrics.

C

Cashmere
A luxury fiber obtained from the soft fleecy undergrowth of the Kashmir goat.

Canvas
Cotton or linen fabric with an even weave that is heavy and firm.

Chiffon
A woven lightweight, extremely sheer, airy, and soft fabric containing highly twisted yarns or fibers. Designed with a soft or still finish.

Colorfast
Describes a dyed fabric's ability to resist fading from washing, exposure to sunlight, and other environmental conditions.

Combing
A process in which fibers or yarns are arranged in a parallel form and short fibers are cut, producing a more even fabric with excellent strength, fineness, and uniformity.

Corduroy
Fabric (usually cotton) made with a cut-pile weave where extra sets of filling yarns are woven into the fabric to form ridges of yarn on the surface.

Cotton
Raw cotton is natural fiber grown from a seed pod in the cotton plant. It is cut at different lengths to form different types of cotton. Fibers longer than 1 1/2 inch, including the Pima and Egyptian varieties, produce the highest quality cotton fabrics. Cotton is soft, breathable, durable, absorbent, and helps hold colors well after repeated washing. Cotton is a popular fabric worn by people with sensitive skin.

D

Denier
A term used to indicate the size or number of filament or yarn. The higher the number the heavier the yarn or fiber.

Denim
Tightly woven twill cotton fabric made with different colored yarns.

Dobby
A mechanical attachment on a loom that controls the harness for the weaving of geometric figures.

Double Knit Fabric
A (weft) horizontal knit fabric produced on a circular knitting machine in which two layers of loops are formed that cannot be separated.

Double Weave
A woven fabric construction made by interlacing two or more sets of (warp) vertical yarns with two or more sets of filling yarns.

Durability
The ability of fabric to resist wear, and loss of material through continual use.

E

Elasticity
A characteristic of woven or knitted fibers, which enables the fiber to return to the original shape after being stretched.

Elasticized Fabric
Fabrics that have elastic thread running through them.

Embossing
A mechanical finishing process used to create raised figures or designs on fabric surfaces. Fabrics are engraved with the use of heated rollers under pressure to create the raised effect.

Embroidery
An embellishment or ornamental designs on a garment made when colored threads are sewn onto the fabric. Embroidery can be done either by hand or machine.

Emerizing
A process in which fabric is passed over emery covered cyliners to make the surface smooth like suede.

Eyelet
A type of fabric that is designed with patterned cut-outs where stitching or embroidery is commonly applied in order to prevent the fabric from raveling. Baseball caps are made with eyelets for ventilation.

F

Felt
A fabric interlocking fibers made possible through chemicals, moisutre and heat without spinning, weaving or knitting. Felt is made of a variety of fibers like wool, hair or fur.

Fiber
A unit of natural or manufactured material, which is twisted or spun into yarn and used in the production of fabric and other textile structures.

Fiberfill
Manufactured fibers, that have been specifically engineered to use as filler material for pillows, mattresses, mattress pads, sleeping bags, comforters, quilts, and outerwear. Polyester fibers are widely used fillers.

Flannel
A medium weight plain or twill weave fabric that is typically made from cotton, a cotton blend, or wool.

Flat Knit Fabric
Fabrics knitted on a flat machine instead of a circular knit machine.

Fleece
Fabric with a thick, heavy surface resembing sheep wool. Features a pile of napped fabric with either woven or knitted construction.

Fraying
The slipping or unraveling of yarns from unfinished edges of cloth and the wearing out of threads in a fabric as a result of rubbing or friction.

G

H

Hand
The way a fabric feels when it is touched. Hand refers to the physical properties of a fabric such as softness, flexibility and texture.

Heat Transfer Printing
A method of printing fibers with disperse dyes. The designed is transferred from pre-printed paper onto the fabric by contact heat, then the dyes are absorbed by the fabric. Heat Transfer is great for producing clear, very well defined images.

Honeycomb
Fabric woven with a long float yarn that creates the look-a-like cell of a honeycomb. Also referred to as waffle.

I

Impact Resistant
The resistance of a material to fracture, or the ability of a material to withstand instant or rapid loading.

Interlock
A variation of rib stitch resembling 2 inter-knitted ribbed fabrics. This construction is thicker, heavier and more resilient than single knit construction.

J

Jacquard
Woven fabrics manufactured by using the Jacquard attachment on a loom. The attachment provides versatility in designs and allows individual control of each of the warp (vertical) yarns.

Jersey
Circular knit or flat knit fabric that features Interlooping yarns which produce a fabric with a smooth, flat surface and textured back.

K

Knit Fabrics
Fabrics made from only one set of yarns, all running in the same direction. Some knits have their yarns running along the length of the fabric, while others have their yarns running across the width of the fabric. The fabrics are held together by looping the yarns around each other. Knitting creates ridges in the resulting fabric.

L

Lace
Open work fine fabric of a network of threads made in a variety of designs by intricate manipulation of the fiber by machine or hand.

Latex
The protein, starches and resins secreted by cells of certain plans such as milkweed, rubber tree and poppy.

Linen
Linen is obtained from inside the woody stem of the flax plant. Linen fabrics are strong, very cool and absorbent, but wrinkle very easily, unless blended with manufactured fibers.

Lining
Lining is a fabric used to cover the inside of a garment. Generally lining is made of a smooth fabric.

Loom
A machine used for weaving fabrics.

Lycra® Spandex
A soft, lightweight fabric that provides freedom of movement and shape retention. Lycra® spandex can be stretched repeatedly and still recover to its original length.

M

Mercerization
The process of treating cotton, yarn or fabric in which the material is immersed in a caustic soda solution (sodium hydroxide) and neutralized in acid resulting in increased color absorbtion and luster on the surface.

Mesh
Mesh fabric is available in a variety of constructions and is characterized by its net-like open appearance, and the spaces between the yarns.

Metallic Fiber
Made from minerals and metals that are blended and extruded to form fibers. The fiber is created from a flat ribbon of metal, then coated with a protective layer of plastic, which reduces tarnishing. Commonly used in clothing for decorations.

Microfiber
Soft, lightweight fabric with a silky feel. Microfiber is shrink-resistant, durable and provides protection against the wind, rain and cold.

Moisture Transfer
The movement of water or sweat from one side of a fabric to the other.

N

Neoprene
Versatlie type of synthetic rubber with a good resistance to oil, chemicals, and flames.

Net
Open fabric which is created by knotting the intersections oc a woven, knitted, or crocheted material to form a mesh- like appearance that won't ravel. End-uses include veils, curtains, and fish nets.

Nonwoven Fabric
Fabrics made from individual fibers held together by chemically or mechanically interlocking in a random web or mat.

Nylon
Completely synthetic fiber known for his high strength, superior flexibility and excellent resilience. Quick-drying nylon fabric is naturally hydrophobic and resistant to shrinkage and wrinkling.

O

Olefin also known as Polypropylene or Polyolefin
A synthetic fiber made from hydrocarbons. Characterized by its lightweight, high strength and abrasion resistance, Olefin is also good at transporting moisture and creating a wicking action.

Organza
A crisp, sheer, lightweight plain weave fabric, with a medium to high yarn count commonly made of silk, rayon, nylon, or polyester.

Oxford
A fine, soft and lightweight woven cotton blended with manufactured/synthetic fibers in plain or basket weave.

P

Percale
A closely woven medium weight, plain weave or spun fabric with a low to medium thread count. Printed cotton woven in a plain weave.

Pigmented
An insoluble, finely divided substance used to change the colors of fibers, yarns or fabrics.

Pill
A ball of fibers that appear on the surface of a fabric as a result of wear or continued friction or rubbing.

Pique
A medium to heavy weight knit or woven fabric with raised cords waffles, or patterns in the vertical direction. Knitted versions are double-knit fabric constructions created on multi-feed circular knitting machines.

Plaid
Different color fabrics crossing each other to form various size squares.

Plain Weave
The most basic weave of horizontal yarns passing over and under each warp yarn in alternate rows.

Plated
Fabric produced from 2 yarns of different colors, characters or qualities. Used in knitted fabric with one kind of yarn on the face of the fabric and another on the back.

Pleat
3 layers of fabric with 2 folds or reversals of direction.

Plush
A fabric with a deeper cut fibers or uncut loops that stand up densely on the surface.

Ply
Twisting yarns together to form 2 or more single strands.

Polyester
Manufactured fiber that is synthesized or made from chemicals. Polyester has high strength (although somewhat lower than nylon), excellent resiliency, and high abrasion resistance. The low absorbency allows the fiber to dry quickly.

Poplin
A fabric made using a rib variation of plain weave, characterized by having a slight ridge effect in one direction (usually in the filling).

Q

Quilting
Created when a layer of padding, fiberfill or down is placed between two layers of fabric and held in together by stitching or sealing.

R

Rayon
Manufactured fiber composed of regenarated celluose. Different types of rayon includes viscose rayon (made from wood chips) cuprammonium rayon made from cotton linters, and topel and corvel rayon.

Repellency
The ability of a fabric to resist wetting and staining.

Resiliency
The ability of a fabric to spring back to its original shape after being twisted, crushed, wrinkled, or distorted in any way.

Rib Knit
Basic stitch used in horizontal knitting in which the knitting machines require two sets of needles operating at right angles to each other. Rib knits have a very high degree of elasticity in the crosswise direction.

Rip Stop
A lightweight, wind resistant, and water resistant nylon plain weave fabric. Large rib yarns are designed to stop tears without adding more weight.

S

Sateen
Cotton fabric woven in a satin weave produced by floating fill yarns over vertical yarns.

Satin
A tradational fabric utilizing a type of weave which gives a garment a smooth lustrous surface with a dull back. Commonly used in the construction of evening wear and wedding gowns.

Screen Printing
A mentod of printing compariable to using a stencil. The background design is painted on the screen with printing paste and the dye is printed through the exposed fabric. Different colors require spearate screens.

Silk Screening
Creating a stencil design on a screen of silk or other fine fabric, then a resistant substance and ink is forced through the cloth onto the printing surface.

Silk
A natural fiber from a cocoon of the silkworm. Most silk is collected from cultivated silk worms and woven into fine, yet strong fabric. The natural resilience makes it wrinkle resistant.

Spandex
A manufactured elastomeric fiber in which the fiber forming substancfe is a long chain of synthetic polymer made of at least 85% of a segmented polyurethane (FTC Definition) Spandex is lightweight, soft static resistant and can be repeatedly stretched over 500% without breaking, and will still recover to its original length.

Straw
Natural plant fibers from stems, stalks, leaves, bark and grass. The fabric is made by braiding, plaiting or weaving the fibers.

Sublimation
Method used for printing. A loss of material as a result of surface evaporation of a solid. Some colors lose dye by sublimation.

Suede
Leather that has been buffed, brushed, napped or sanded to create a soft and fuzzy surface.

Suede Fabric
Woven or knitted cloth fabric finished to look like suede leather.

Swatch
A small piece of fabric used to represent garment.

T

Tackle Twill
Twill material with a heat-seal backing, usually used for letters or numbers that are cut and sewn onto garments with a zigzag tack-down border.

Taffeta
A lustrous plain weave fabric with a smooth feel and slightly ribbed appearance.

Tapestry
Decorative woven fabric with an elaborate design, ofen used to hang a the wall.

Terry
A soft fabric designed with 2 sets of vertical yarns, one is woven tightly and the other is left loose to form the loops.

Thread Count
Actual number of vertical and horzintal threads in a fabric construction. Common term used to describe bedding.

Tricot
A vertical stretch knitted fabric in which the fabric is formed by interlooping adjacent parallel yarns.

Tulle
A lightweight and very fine machine-made netting that looks similar to mesh.

Tweed
A thick wool or wool blend fabric woven with dyed yarns.

Twill Weave
A basic and distinct weave vertical yarns passing over 1 or 2 horizontal yarns then under 2 or more. Interlacing the yarns in a progressive alternation creates a diagonal effect on the fabric.

U

V

VELCRO®
Nyon strips treated to stick to each other. VELCRO® is commonly used as closures on clothing fabrics and footwear.

Velour
A closely woven fabric with a thick soft feel.

Velvet
Created using two sets of vertical yarns. Velvet, a luxurious fabric, is commonly made with a filament fiber for high luster and smooth feel.

Virgin Wool
Wool that has never been processed, woven or refined into fabric.

Viscose
The most common type of rayon.

W

Waffle
Fabric with a honeycomb weave.

Warp
Threads that run vertical in a fabric.

Waterproofing
A term used to describe fabrics or garments with closed pores, so water water or air will not pass through.

Water-Repellent
Fabrics that can shed water but are allow air to pass through. The fabrics are made by treating material with resin, wax or a plastic finish.

Weave
A design or pattern created by intersecting vertical and horizontal threads with each other.

Weft
Threads that run horizontally in a fabric.

Wickability
The ability of a material to spread moisture out and allow it to pass through a fabric surface so that evaporation can take place.

Wool
Thick and soft hair from the coat of a sheep, lamb, and other animals such as a Cashmere or Angora goat. Different types of animal hair are used and graded for their color, length, fineness.

Worsted
Tightly woven fabric with a hard smooth surface made from long staple combed wool or wool-blend fibers.

Wrinkle-Resistant
The ability of a fabric to resist the formation of wrinkles when folded.

X

Y

Yarn
A continuous strand of natural or synthetic threads twisted together and used to weave or knit garments.

Yarn-Dyed
Yarns that were dyed before knitting or weaving into fabric.

Z